| Iran was once a popular travel destination for | | | | Mosque is the majestic six storey Ali Qapu Palace. |
| Westerners. Many people will be surprised to learn | | | | Built as a monumental gateway, it also served as |
| that the travellers who still visit the country, | | | | the residence of the Shahs. |
| return safely having had a fantastic time. | | | | You'll need a good guidebook to fully understand |
| Yes, there have been demonstrations and, at | | | | this building but undoubtedly the highlight is the |
| government level hostile words, but the average | | | | elevated terrace with its 18 slender columns. The |
| Iranian that you'll meet in your travels is warm, | | | | view across the square for the Shah and his |
| open and very friendly. Iran is the birthplace of | | | | guests must have been a wonderful sight. Shah |
| much of our culture and today still offers some | | | | Abbas I and II reigned at the height of Persian |
| amazing cultural and personal experiences. | | | | culture. |
| Yes, you will need a visa but for most nationalities | | | | On the other side of the square is the smaller |
| these can be obtained at the airport upon arrival. | | | | Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, sometimes referred to |
| For those travelling on a UK or USA passport, the | | | | as the Ladies Mosque because it may have been |
| requirement is that you must be booked on a | | | | built to serve as a place of worship for the Shah's |
| group tour or at least have your visa application | | | | harem. Built between 1602 and 1619 during the |
| made via one of the local tour companies. | | | | reign of Shah Abbas I, it is marked different from |
| Independent travel by people from non UK/USA | | | | the Imam Mosque with its pale tones and quiet |
| countries is possible for the brave. | | | | harmony. The colours change during the day from |
| Iran is well served with a bus network and both | | | | cream to pink at sunset. The arabesque patterns |
| train and internal air travel is possible. Little English | | | | and floral designs of the exterior panels are |
| is spoken outside of Tehran and Isfahan, so hiring | | | | remarkable. The portal is an example of the fine |
| a guide makes a lot of sense. They are relatively | | | | stalactite work with a rich concentration of blue |
| inexpensive. Having said this, taking a group tour | | | | and golden motifs. This honey-comb-like |
| also has a lot to offer. | | | | plasterwork form little niches bracketed one |
| Iran is an Islamic country and has a strict dress | | | | above the other in geometric patterns, is very |
| code that visitors are required to follow. This is | | | | pleasing to the eye. Again the interior is superb |
| particularly difficult for females who are required | | | | and the unusual design of the mihab is the finest |
| to have headgear, arms and legs fully covered | | | | in Iran. |
| while in public. For men, long-sleeves and trousers, | | | | Flash photography is not allowed inside so bring a |
| are required. Westerners are welcome in most | | | | tripod for your camera. |
| cities but care should be exercised in the very | | | | Entrance fees apply to all of the above. A number |
| conservative religious cities of Qom and Mashhad. | | | | of companies offer walking tours. Check these |
| Tehran has little to offer except the Grand | | | | out as these may offer good value. Take water |
| Bazaar and the amazing Jewellery Museum but | | | | and have good walking shoes. |
| this is made up for in the cities of Isfahan (also | | | | The Qeysarieh Portal gate leads off the square |
| spelled Esfahan), Shiraz, and Yazd. | | | | directly into the Grand Bazaar. These are best |
| Shiraz, and Yazd are both worth a day or more | | | | visited in the mornings while trade is the most |
| and the ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis, 70 | | | | brisk. The variety, smell, colour and sounds of the |
| kilometres from Shiraz is one of world's most | | | | bazaar will astound you. The cheerful |
| dramatic ruins. Shiraz has wonderful gardens and | | | | shop-keepers love to show off their wares. |
| an interesting mosque tiled with mirrors. Yazd has | | | | Bargaining is the go. Small items like the one-hair |
| its winding lanes, wind towers and mud-brick | | | | painted miniatures and the hand-printed tablecloths |
| homes. This is the best place to explore the | | | | called qalamkar textiles are inexpensive and easy |
| Zoroastrian culture. Check out the impressive | | | | to carry however the shopkeepers will pack and |
| three storey high Amir Chakhmaq Complex - with | | | | ship larger items. If you use a credit card, check |
| its rows of perfectly proportioned decorated | | | | out the charges. |
| alcoves. If you have the time, the Yazd Water | | | | Take a little time out to try one of the rooftop |
| Museum has a most interesting display of the | | | | tea houses. Sample the variety of teas while |
| underground water canals called quanats. | | | | trying out a hubbly bubbly (smoking flavoured |
| Isfahan is a relatively compact city with most of | | | | tobacco through a water pipe). Explore some of |
| the main attractions within walking distance. It is | | | | the shops and tea houses that are converted |
| indeed impressive and some say that it is the | | | | caravanserais. These are a throwback from the |
| most beautiful city in the world. The main | | | | old Silk Road when trade was at its height. |
| attractions: the Imam Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, | | | | Other Isfahan attractions include the impressive |
| the Sheikh Lotf Alah Mosque and the entrance to | | | | Jamah Mosque that dates back to 771, the |
| the Grand Bazaar, are clustered around the huge | | | | Chehelsotun Palace and the Khaju and Si-o-Se-Pol |
| Imam (Naghsh-j Jahan) Square. Once a military | | | | bridges. Check the bridges out late afternoon or |
| parade ground, polo field and horse race track, | | | | early evening when they are illuminated. |
| the central area is now a water feature and | | | | Money can be a problem in Iran. Very few ATMs |
| dozens of shops surround the square. | | | | take western cards. The local currency is the Rial |
| Construction of the Palace started in 1611. It is a | | | | but the term tomans is sometimes used. A |
| fine example of Islamic architecture at its peak. | | | | toman is 10 rials. Always ask or carry USA dollars |
| Its splendour comes from the seven-colour | | | | or Euros instead. The best way of getting local |
| mosaic tiles that cover the dome and the | | | | currency is to use the private money change |
| beautiful calligraphic inscriptions in various locations. | | | | offices (not the black market touts). A conversion |
| The front portal of the mosque is 27 meters high | | | | chart or calculator helps if you are serious about |
| and it is flanked by two minarets 42 meters tall. | | | | your shopping. |
| Together with the 52 meter high dome, the late | | | | Isfahan has a variety of tourist hotels varying |
| afternoon view of the mosque with its tiles | | | | from hostels to the up-market Abbasi Hotel. Shop |
| glistening in the late afternoon sun, is a scene that | | | | around for the best prices. This hotel has a |
| you'll long remember. | | | | variety of different room types and rates. It has |
| If you find the exterior impressive, the beauty of | | | | a wonderful courtyard setting and worth checking |
| the interior will take your breath away. Amazing | | | | out. |
| tiles, plasterwork and more calligraphy together | | | | So is Isfahan "half the word"? Well, you'll have to |
| with dramatic patterns adorns the ceiling. Standing | | | | go there for yourself before you can decide. |
| under the centre of the dome you can | | | | We thought that it was when we passed through |
| experience the most amazing acoustic properties | | | | on our grand trans-Central Asian journey written |
| of the dome's design. | | | | up in the book Following Marco Polo's Silk Road. |
| On the left side of the square from the Imam | | | | |