| It is raining nonstop in this tiny Caribbean village. It | | | | construction created by man- a dimension borne |
| has rained incessantly for 3 days straight; the only | | | | out of the human mind designed to placate the |
| exception was the first day following the night of | | | | ego and apply order to chaos. We place |
| my arrival. Unfortunately I spent that beautiful | | | | enormous emphasis on the passage of time. |
| first day inside the local jungle internet | | | | Perhaps we would be better served focusing on |
| café working on my website, falsely | | | | the empty space between the hours and |
| assuming there would be plenty of time for the | | | | minutes- the universal sense of timelessness |
| beach. In addition to the rain, my stomach's | | | | where inner peace and stillness lie. |
| abrupt and vehement rebellion against the local | | | | I am the same soul I was nine years ago, despite |
| cuisine has placed a damper on my visit here. | | | | the aging of my physical body. If the soul goes on |
| It is my final day in Puerto Viejo and I feel | | | | after the physical body breaks down, then we |
| surprisingly melancholy. The rain in this village | | | | are all inherently capable of entering the space of |
| brings a certain element of tranquility that is | | | | universal consciousness where the gift of |
| perfect for my creative flow. However with my | | | | timelessness awaits us. That gift is the present |
| departure for San Jose fast approaching, I long to | | | | moment, and we are all free to enter it |
| enjoy the beautiful stretch of beach that I | | | | whenever we are ready. This, I realize, is my goal |
| remember so well from my last visit here. There | | | | for this journey, and my journey will continue long |
| is a narrow jungle path that leads to a vast | | | | after I leave this village. |
| expanse of unspoiled coastline. I started on the | | | | Brief description of two hotels on the Caribbean |
| path yesterday afternoon anxious to relax on the | | | | Coast of Costa Rica: |
| warm sand and swim in the calm water, but a | | | | Almonds and Corals Resort- Manzanillo. Luxury |
| darkening sky and the rumble of thunder off in | | | | bungalow tents located in the heart of the |
| the distance sent me back to the shelter of the | | | | Manzanillo wildlife refuge approximately 10 miles |
| peaceful Casa Verde Hotel. The rain has | | | | south of Puerto Viejo offering five star service, |
| hampered my ability to enjoy the new addition at | | | | accommodations and amenities. Rooms are |
| beautiful Casa Verde, a lovely swimming pool built | | | | spacious, clean and comfortable with an IF (Insect |
| to resemble a natural lagoon, with interesting rock | | | | Factor) grade of A-. While I did not spot a single |
| formations and a soothing waterfall gently spilling | | | | critter in my own room, the people in the |
| into clear blue water. | | | | bungalow next to mine complained of several |
| I am sitting at my favorite hangout Café | | | | large insects in the bathroom area. The bungalows |
| Rico, an open air bamboo hut hidden inside a | | | | are elevated by platforms lifted on stilts and |
| dense cluster of beautiful tropical foliage. The | | | | connected by narrow wooden boardwalks |
| place feels like a remote jungle hideaway. The | | | | illuminated by gas lamps. The rooms include |
| voices of local children and a sweet floral aroma | | | | comfortable queen sized beds surrounded by |
| float through the balmy air as I observe locals and | | | | mosquito netting and open air showers. This |
| tourists ambling along the muddy dirt road just | | | | gorgeous, tranquil resort sits in the midst of a |
| beyond the café. My new friend Liza, | | | | rainforest jungle on a stretch of beautiful beach. |
| whose boyfriend Roger owns the café, | | | | The beach is not ideal for swimming due to the |
| graciously serves me unlimited helpings of the | | | | strong currents but it is perfect for relaxation. |
| best cappuccino in town and shares with me her | | | | The closest swimming beach is a ten minute |
| latest impressions of the eccentric American man | | | | scenic walk from the resort. The resort is |
| who has taken up residence here to promote the | | | | constantly shaded from the sun due to the |
| health benefits of colloidal silver and the dangers | | | | surrounding rainforest, giving the place a true |
| inherent dangers of government sponsored | | | | jungle feeling akin to a five star sleep away camp |
| terrorism. | | | | for adults or the setting of the 1960's television |
| A Canadian surfer walks in and orders a sandwich | | | | show Gilligan's Island. At the huge open air |
| and a fruit smoothie. A local bush doctor named | | | | restaurant, a warm and friendly Jesse will greet |
| Gregory offers to brew me a cup of medicinal | | | | you with a beautiful smile, eager to make your |
| tea made from an indigenous plant to cleanse my | | | | stay a pleasant one. A full buffet style breakfast |
| ailing colon. Puerto Viejo seems to turn up a | | | | is included. Dinners are tasty and satisfying and |
| constant stream of random characters and I | | | | meal portions are more than generous. An |
| never know what new surprise awaits me around | | | | unlimited supply of delicious Costa Rican coffee |
| the next corner. Will it be a Canadian surfer, a | | | | and bananas is available to guests throughout the |
| group of European backpackers, an Australian | | | | day. The resort has its own zip line, a full service |
| retired journalist or a local bush doctor? I have | | | | spa and many comfortable nooks and crannies |
| been spending time these past few days with a | | | | perfect for reading, napping or just relaxing and |
| dance choreographer from Astoria, Queens. We | | | | mediating. This is the perfect place to relax, |
| have decided we are kindred spirits grappling with | | | | unwind and commune with nature. However if |
| parallel life issues and searching for our soul's | | | | you are seeking cell phone service, Wi-Fi |
| enlightenment through solitary travel. | | | | connection or a resort located in easy walking |
| The rain has just intensified and it is beating | | | | distance of shops, restaurants and nightlife, this is |
| powerfully against the bamboo roof of this | | | | not the place for you as the closest town (Puerto |
| makeshift café, drowning out all other | | | | Viejo) is a good 15 minutes by car. |
| noises from the surrounding village. I am safely | | | | Cabinas Casa Verde- Puerto Viejo. Located in the |
| ensconced inside a tropical hideout with delicious | | | | heart of Puerto Viejo, Casa Verde offers a clean, |
| coffee and a constant supply of revolving drifters | | | | friendly, safe environment tucked away from the |
| with a story to share. This is a writer's haven, | | | | dust and noise of the village center yet still within |
| and yet, the inner stillness and spiritual | | | | easy walking distance from the beaches, cafes |
| contentment I am seeking continue to elude me. | | | | and restaurants sprinkled throughout the village. |
| My mind remains preoccupied with extraneous | | | | The place has a strong hippie vibe and tends to |
| details. I am reflecting on the sharp contrast | | | | cater to backpackers and budget travelers in |
| between my present experience in Puerto Viejo | | | | search of quality accommodations at a reasonable |
| and memories of my exciting, sun filled week nine | | | | price. Walking the hotel grounds, it is easy to |
| years ago when I was a young graduate student | | | | forget you are in Puerto Viejo. The IF at Cabinas |
| from Manhattan traveling through the country in | | | | Casa Verde is a solid A+, as I did not spot a |
| search of new adventures. During those restless | | | | single critter inside my basic room with private |
| years of young adulthood, I was a hopeless | | | | bath and two double beds. This tiny slice of |
| romantic with idealistic views about life and love. I | | | | heaven with its beautifully manicured gardens, |
| was carefree and naïve, always searching | | | | lagoon style swimming pool, soothing waterfall, |
| for validation in people and places while failing to | | | | open air Jacuzzi and spa area could easily be |
| look within for my sense of peace and fulfillment. | | | | found anywhere else in the Caribbean yet it |
| Through the passage of time and weathering | | | | maintains the wild and natural appeal of Costa |
| several harsh storms in my life, I have come to | | | | Rica. Casa Verde serves breakfast in a beautiful |
| understand that true happiness cannot be found in | | | | outdoor garden surrounded by exotic birds and |
| the material world as it must originate from within | | | | beautiful tropical flowers. |
| the heart and soul. Even so, I struggle with many | | | | Guests can help themselves to an unlimited supply |
| of the same emotional dynamics that challenged | | | | of coffee and the kitchen serves delicious |
| me during my last visit to Puerto Viejo nine years | | | | breakfast option like homemade crepes filled with |
| earlier. Perhaps the experience of solitary travel | | | | tropical fruit and blended fresh fruit smoothies. |
| brings these issues into sharper focus due to the | | | | The owner Rene and his wife Caroline reside on |
| length of time spent engaged in deep | | | | the premises, and Rene is a constant friendly |
| introspection. | | | | presence in the open air lobby and throughout the |
| It is funny how time works. The past nine years | | | | grounds of his beautiful tropical oasis. It is clear he |
| have brought many changes- losses and triumphs, | | | | takes enormous pride in his surroundings, and he |
| blessings and heartbreaks. Despite the passage of | | | | treats the guests like personal friends visiting his |
| time, I sit here now watching the rain fall and | | | | home. The reception desk arranges bicycle rentals |
| wondering how much has really changed inside of | | | | for guests to enjoy the many beautiful jungle |
| me. I could swear it was only yesterday I | | | | trails and beaches that line the outskirts of town. |
| stumbled into this café laughing and | | | | Bottled water, snacks, juice and soda are available |
| seeking shelter from the tropical storm that | | | | for purchase in the open air lobby. The place feels |
| chased me off the beach. Tomorrow I must | | | | like a tiny slice of heaven, comfortably secluded |
| leave this village and head to San Jose, where I | | | | from the rest of the village like a tiny island |
| will spend the night before continuing my journey | | | | paradise. If you decide to visit Cabinas Casa |
| on the Pacific side of the country. I wonder if I | | | | Verde, be sure to ask for one of the rooms with |
| will return to Puerto Viejo in nine more years and | | | | a private bath and bring plenty of mosquito |
| reflect back on this period of my life with the | | | | repellant, rain gear and comfortable walking shoes. |
| same sense of bittersweet nostalgia. | | | | Be sure to ask for Rene at the reception desk, |
| Time moves so fast and yet at the same time, it | | | | and prepare to enjoy the many wonderful |
| appears to stand still. There is no denying the | | | | pleasures of the Pura Vida. |
| aging process, and yet time is an artificial | | | | |